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So you have no cross supports? do you have any other pictures. (I know I asked that all ready)

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

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that is correct. There are two sheets of metal other than that... there is no cross support. There is a bottom with a whole just big enough to get a bulb out. The bulbs are in the 4 corners
alambert39041.7285069444

Alan, i tried the steam route on my first bend with a kettle and steam chamber and it went rather well considering that my sides were oak ply but i was advised to go electric with hardwoods and i don't regret the change, i have now a blanket and 3-200 watts bulbs and i love it.

If you go the electric route, make sure to buy a temperature reader so you avoid scorching the wood and like Hesh said, stay close to the bender untill your job is completed, safety first buddy!

Her's my former steam machine!



And ma new machine with bulbs and blanket!



There are a lot of info on how to make a very good one out there but if i can help, lemme know!

Serge

sorry double post.Rod True39041.8478587963

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

So you have a full bottom on it. OK.

I'm sorry to say though that if you put new bulbs in your existing locations you will have problems.

The first problem that you will most likly have is a fire. You see, your bulbs are to close to the side and the side is just bare wood. When you get a bulb that will give enough heat output in there, it will burn the inside of your mold before you get the metal hot enough evenly to bend the sides.

Second problem you will have is that the metal will not heat evenly with the bulbs in the corners. The waist will most likly not get hot enough and the lower bout will most likly not get hot enough either.

There could be a third in that the sides of the bender may cave inward slightly because you have no cross support other than the steel slat. But this may not happen.

My suggestion would be to start over and build a new bender or make some modifications to this one. But I would build a new one.

Here are a bunch of web sites with descriptions and pictures of benders that work well.

First is Bruce Dickey's bender which is posted in the Jig's, Tools & Techniques section

Than there is David Hurds bender He makes Ukes so I would add a third bulb for guitar bending.

Than there is JC Jones side bender.

Than there is Mike Doolin's side bender. I made one of these and it works very well. This one is a little more complicated but you can do it if you take a good look through the process and my post in the archives Here

Now if you don't want to make one (but I bet you do) there is John Hall at Blues Creek guitar (one of the OLF sponsors) who will sell you a fine side bender.

There are other options out there, but I didn't want to overwhelm you with any more options.Rod True39041.8489351852

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Rod, youda maaaaannn!